How to print the DRACO-LE1
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The STL package of this model includes an “All-In-One” Print Profile created for Bambu Lab X1 and P1 Series 3D printers. If you intend to use any of those printers to print the model, follow this instruction to print all parts: How to use Bambu Studio’s All-In-One Print Profile
If you don’t have access to any Bambu Lab X1 and P1 Series 3D printers. All of the STL files are really straight forward to print. All you need to do is load them into your slicer software, select your desirable settings (e.g. layer height, infill percentage, etc.) and slice the parts. All parts of this model can be printed with a standard 0.4mm Nozzle.
Please note: The STL for each part was saved in the recommended orientation to print on FDM printers. Hence, when you load the STL in your slicer software, you don’t need to orientate them again, unless you want to try to print them in a different orientation.
Below are some tips
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This model was specifically designed to fit the BambuLab’s Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit (LINK). If you use any other Magnetic Levitation DIY Kits on the Internet, the parts might be suitable.
There are a lot of information about this Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit on the website above. It is highly recommended that you read and understand the “Placement Techniques” and “Considerations” before purchasing the Kit, or using the Kit for the first time!
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If you never used any Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit before, it will take a bit of practice to get anything floats! This is completely normal and you have to be patient!
If you failed a couple of times, the base will get warm and shut itself off (to prevent overheating). You will know when this happens because the LEDs will turn off. At that point you must unplug the base and let it cool down for about five to ten minutes, and you can plug in and try again.
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It is highly recommended that you practice with the original “Float” that comes with the DIY Kit first before modifying it. Again, getting this float to levitate on the base takes a bit of practice. Once you get a feel for how to find the sweet spot and be able to make the “Float” levitates by itself, then you’ll be ready to modify this DIY Kit for the DRACO model.
If you really struggle, print out the “Training Stand” (2-off) in the STEP 99 (OPTIONAL PARTS) folder. Place this Stand on the original Base of the DIY Kit, and use it to practice – it’ll make your life so much easier!
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At STEP 3, there are two options to print the multi-colour Lid:
Option 1 (Recommended): If you want to print the Lid as a multi-colour print, all you need to do is load both of files of the Lid (Black, and White) into your slicer software, assign the correct colour to the part, and print.
Please note: Both the Black and White parts are saved from the same coordinate in relation to each other. Hence, when you load them into your slicer software, they should merge together correctly. You don’t need to align them manuallyOption 2: Print the Black, and White parts separately, then glue them together. If you choose to do so, please scale down the White parts slightly so they’ll fit into the Black part.
How to assemble this model?
So now you’ve got all your parts printed? Great! Let’s assemble the model. I’ll take you through the assembly process step by step but before that, you need to purchase some items:
- BambuLab’s Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit (LINK) | Qty: 1-off
STEP 1: ‘Dry’ assemble the model
At this step, all I want you to do is try to assemble all the 3D printed parts together to get a good understanding of where they are located. Because there are some electronics you’ll need to fit during the assembly process, doing this first step will give you an idea of how to assemble the model correctly. Please use the files in STEP 01 folder, and the photos below if required.
STEP 2: Assemble the DRACO model
Parts required (refer to the photos below)
- 1x Draco Body
- 1x Heat Shield
- 1x Heat Shield Lid
- 1x “Float” from the Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit
Assembly process
- STEP 2a: Carefully disassemble the “Float” of the Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit and transfer all the internal parts (e.g. magnets, power supply coil, and the light board) from the original 3D printed shell into the Heat Shield of the DRACO model
Please note: Instead of printing the Heat Shield Lid, you can actually re-use the 3D printed cap from the original “Float” to secure the components above to the Heat Shield. Also, the coil connection wire is relatively thin so please be careful not to damage it whilst trying to close the lid
- STEP 2b: Install the DRACO body to the Heat Shield.
Please note: It is an interference fit between the DRACO body and the Heat Shield so you don’t need to glue these two parts together.
STEP 3: Assemble the Magnetic Levitation Base
Parts required (refer to the photos below)
- 1x Magnetic Levitation Lid
- 1x Magnetic Levitation Base
- 1x Magnetic Levitation Core from the DIY Kit
Assembly process
- STEP 3: Carefully disassemble the “Core” of the Magnetic Levitation DIY Kit and transfer all the internal parts from the original 3D printed shell into the new shell of the DRACO model
Please note: Instructions (with more photos) for assembling a very similar base can be found HERE
STEP 4: Levitate the DRACO
Parts required (refer to the photos below)
- 1x DRACO model from STEP 2
- 1x Magnetic Levitation Base from STEP 3
Assembly process
- STEP 4: Carefully lower the DRACO model onto the Base and see it levitates!!!
OPTIONAL: The ‘Splashdown‘ and ‘Deorbit Burn‘ Stands are optional and can be downloaded FREE of charge via our Morethan3D Discord Server under #free-giveaway channel. To use these Stands, simple press-fit them into the Heat Shield of the DRACO model (no glue is required), and levitate the whole thing on the Magnetic Levitation Base.
